Thursday, March 11, 2010

So I know that I promised updates about my Marrakech and Essaouira adventures two weeks ago...sorry about that. :) This time my blog negligence was actually intentional; I've had a string of tests and mid-terms (several of my profs decided to give tests the week before mid-terms as well as actual mid-terms, which I was not a fan of) and papers and such, so I've been trying to use my time wisely. Miraculously, I have no classes today, so I thought I'd take a study break and update you about my time and travels here in Morocco.

(in Marrakech)

The trip to the south was an interesting one, to be sure: we took an overnight bus Wednesday night and got to Marrakech at about six in the morning. Luckily we found a security officer who showed us the way through the back alleys to our hotel, where we napped for a few hours until the surrounding businesses opened. (To those of you who have expressed concern about my travel safety, rest assured: everything in Morocco is found in the sketchy back alleys. We weren't being reckless, just Moroccan, haha.) We stayed near the Djemaa el Fna, which is sort of the main square/marketplace in Marrakech. It's located at the center of a series of sketchy back alleys where you find shops selling everything from Berber rugs and tajine pots to musical instruments and fake Gucci bags, and the Djemaa el Fna itself is a mix of stands selling fruits and fruit juices, as well as dates, almonds, and other such products, a variety of restaurants and a smattering of snake charmers and monkey trainers. It's a bit touristy, but quite a sight to behold. We spent the day walking around the city and devouring enormous quantities of food and freshly-squeezed oranges. It was nice to be in a part of Morocco that was actually sunny.

(We found a Haagen Dazs in Marrakech. Yummmm.)

The next day, we took a bus to Essaouira, a semi-nearby resort town on the Atlantic. Everyone--Moroccans and internationals alike--told us that Essaouira was the most beautiful town in Morocco, but our initial impression was none-too-favorable. We were hassled from the moment we stepped off the bus by men carrying business cards to various hotels, who wanted money to take us or tell us the way to a place to stay. Unfortunately, we couldn't get to our hotel by taxi and since we weren't exactly sure how to get there (we'd planned to take a cab), we had to pull out my guidebook to examine a map. Nothing screams "I"M A TOURIST!" like pulling out a guidebook, it seems, so we got hassled some more. One man followed us almost all the way to our hotel, asking for money for "showing us the way"--though we didn't follow him and we told him to go away in English, French, and Arabic--and another man called us names and told us to "go back to America" when we wouldn't give him money.
(At the beach in Essaouira.)

Eventually, however, we did find our hotel, and the trip was much more fun after we put down our bags. I did have one unfortunate incident left for the day, though: I got pooped on by a seagull, haha. I didn't find it funny at the moment, but I can't help but smile as I type about it now. The ocean was beautiful, and we had fun walking around the medina and looking at the shops. As usual, we enjoyed the food; most of the group chowed down on seafood, and Lauren and I made another exciting back-alley discovery--the best Moroccan restaurant we've found yet, where we enjoyed a three-course meal (I had harira, couscous with chicken and veggies, and chocolate mousse) for about 50 dirhams, which is a bit over six U.S. dollars. Amazing. It is quite possible that I will be to cheap to ever shop again in the States, after getting used to Moroccan prices. Anyway, we took another overnight bus back to Ifrane Saturday night. Unsurprisingly, it was raining when we returned. (Read: this is the rainiest winter Ifrane has had in over 50 years. I'm so glad I could be here for that, after one of the rainiest autumns in Arkansas last semester. :D) My good luck continued when my backpack rolled out of the luggage hold on the bus and landed in a large puddle, forcing me once again to take part in that most-dreaded chore of washing laundry. But all in all, we had a really fun trip, and I'd love to go back to Marrakech and Essaouira, especially now that I know some of the ins-and-outs of the place. :)

(If only I'd had a slingshot...hahaha.)

Since the trip, I've mostly been studying and such. I did go to the souk (weekly outdoor market) in Ifrane on Sunday, where I was able to stock up on some fruits and veggies, not to mention buy popcorn (the first I've had in two months!), so I was excited. I've also discovered a delightful little restaurant in Ifrane that sells tiramisu and chocolate muffins in addition to yummy tajines, which was an exciting find. Despite the nasty Ifrane weather (which is rumored to be lovely in summer, when all the surrounding areas are scorching, but has been rainy, cold, and windy for almost my entire stay so far), I have fallen in love with Morocco in my time here, and would recommend that you all visit if you ever have the chance. I know I'll want to come back.

(The yummy restaurant in Essaouira.)

Now that I've updated you on my life and adventures, I'd like to ask you to do something for me. I learned at Bible study last night that, over the past week or so, several foreign Christians have been forced out of the country on charges of proselytizing, which is illegal here in Morocco. A large portion of those who were evacuated operated an orphanage called the Village of Hope. They honestly thought they were complying with regulations, but were interrogated and deported with almost no time to pack or to say goodbye to the children. Orphans have a particularly hard lot in Islamic countries, where, even if adopted, they don't have the same rights as biological children, and even the Muslim Moroccans who worked with these kids got kicked off the premises, so there is not a single familiar face taking care of them right now. Please be in prayer for the children, for those who were deported, and for those who may still be deported. Its a rough situation, especially since Morocco has been considered a moderate nation which encourages peaceful relations between peoples of different faiths. Keep the people of this beautiful country in your prayers.

Here's a link to an article about the orphanage workers who were deported, if you're interested: http://www.christianpost.com/article/20100309/christians-expelled-forced-to-abandon-33-foster-kids-in-morocco/

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